A good way to break in a new leather holster : ) Recently acquired a .380 Firestorm (all matte black) and CCW permit. Accessories include a high riding, black leather OWB paddle/pancake designed holster, the verso side of it embossed with 'The Master Holster' in a small arch shape and a larger embossed lettering 'Bersa 380'. It appears to be designed to accomodate any Bersa .380 and wouldn't be surprised if worked well for the 9mm UC genre as well.
There's no restraining strap required on the (thick but light, 'hand made') holster, since the snug custom fit insures a secure containment that will not release the contents until drawn straight up and out.
Though near my seventh decade of life's journey I'm a newbie here and not counting my introduction, this is my first post. Probly a real good chance that the holster break-in method suggested here is known to a lot of folks, while on the other hand, imho, it's certainly worth sharing and does indeed work quite well and save a lot of break-in time, while allowing for a smoother draw - especially when it may be most needed:
It's simply a matter of including one or more fairly narrow bee's-wax candles to yer ordnance tools. Specifically, the extended narrow shape of bee's-wax candle allows it to be implemented to effect rubbing it briskly against all of the interior of the new holster. Of course there will be some transfer of wax to the weapon as it is cycled in and out of the interior holster and imo that is a good thing. (The application of any type of oil to the interior of holster is not recommended.)
Anyway, bee's wax works well for me.
Best regards and thanks very much for being here.
- Kai
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I use the actual firearm that is to be carried in said holster, wrapped in 2 sheets of wax paper and left in the holster for 1 to 2 weeks method. Also used the gun in a thin dress sock method to break in a tight holster. I've never treated a leather holster with anything that would soften it for fear of having it get too soft and loosing it's shape or retention characteristics faster than normal...
My 2 pennies...
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For me, what works best is to cover the muzzle end of the the gun with two regular socks and leave it in the holster for a weekend.
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+1. I used this method as well on my new leather holster and it worked well. Cheaper then Bee's wax and a lot easyier to use. Wrap the firemarm and pull it in and out of the holster a few times and it will lossen it up just enough.Originally Posted by 6shootercarry
THEY MAY TAKE OUR LIVES BUT THEY'LL NEVER TAKE OUR FREEDOM!!!!!
the best way to break in a new holster is to wear it every day.
do not get it wet, or put oil on it. or step on it. just put the firearm inside and then put it on your person and wear it it will mold to your body and to the firearm with the transpiration of your body.
It takes time.
For my Galco Silhouette I wrapped my Glock 17 in plastic wrap, then a layer of duct tape. I put it into a Ziploc gallon freezer bag with a sponge moistened with hot water, overnight then tested the draw. This sped up the break in process considerably over wearing daily for a week, especially in wintertime.
Don't you just hate a holster that's too tight?
There's few things more embarrassing than giving yourself a wedgie on the firing line while trying to draw or, if it's a holster on a gun belt, pulling your whole rig up to your ribcage while trying to draw. I've been there and done both.
The most I've ever had to do to loosen up a too tight holster is to simply roll it a little in my hands while pressing inward. Pressing in on the front and back edges usually will open it up just enough to making the draw easier. That's my last ditch maneuver. The first thing I try is to simply twist the gun slightly while it is in the holster and the holster is being worn in the carry position. That normally takes care of any hanging up while insuring that I'm not loosening the fit so much that the gun rattles around or flops about. I want it snug enough to stay put but not so tight that I can't get it out when the time comes.
For my CAS competition holsters, I've started ordering the holsters to fit the original model Ruger Vaquero rather than the Colt SAA/clones that I use. Since the older model Ruger is slightly larger (current Vaqueros are built on a smaller frame and are the same size as the Colt), a holster that's too tight for the Ruger is just right for the Colt clones. I learned this trick the hard way back in the '90's when I first got into CAS. I borrowed a Vaquero from a friend and used it to stretch my first CAS rig out a little by simply shoving the Vaquero ALL the way into the holsters and leaving it in there for a week or two at a time. Every time I walked by it (I put it in the linen closet in the hall), I pulled it out and shoved it all the way back in. After 2 weeks, it had loosened up enough that I swapped to the other holster and repeated the process.
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