Does TulAmmo use corrosive primers?

[jeffelliott]

I used this ammo target shooting with no problems. I only had 1 failure to fire. This can happen with any ammo out there.

[jg1967]

Maybe they did some time ago but current production is very clearly labelled as non corrosive.

[Warbirds]

It is non corosive crap crap crap crap crap crap.

I have never had so much trouble with ammo as I have had with this stuff. I bought a couple of boxes from Walmart to do some cheap shooting and i so regret it. It won't cycle in my 20" HBAR A3 bushmaster. It seems to be underpowered and won't cycle the carrier group far enough to pick up the next round. It leaves a scratch in the steel casing 3/4 down the side where it doesn't go back far enough.

So after that failure I tried to finish off the partial box in my 9" AR pistol. It cycles but would fail to feed, for some reason the bolt would lock back. Before I could finish the box I had a steel casing stick in the chamber. I had to pound it out with a borrowed cleaning rod. I didn't find someone with a rod until we were about to leave so my gun sat for most of the time we were there.

You could blame it on my ARs or the ammo I had picked up as a bad batch....but. On the way there we stopped and picked up some 40SW for my friend to shoot in his IMI mini desert eagle. He had just as much trouble witht the 40 as I did with the 223. It would FTF and at times when it did feed you could feel the gun hiccup as it would fail to smoothly load the next round. It also locked up twice with the bullet half way up the ramp with both the slide and the mag jammed.

The stuff is crap.

[agrippakc]

Always read the box. Some are and some are.not, Ive seen both. If you are dirt poor and want to shoot it can work in a pinch but you take the poor mans risks.

[tpd223]

NO, Tula does not use corrosive primers for their ammo.

[NotTwoShure]

One of my Mini’s has “Eaten” nothing but Tula. No issues and it is old stuff with the most terrible lacquer, steel cases. This Mini, a Ranch with an extreme scope, has had no malfunctions noted so far. Years of use and the steady steel. I do believe it read non-corrosive on the initial orders.

[6shootercarry]

One way to tell...

Remove the bullet, pour out the powder, get a piece of non stainless steel to use for test surface. A piece of sheet metal will work well, sand a section to remove any surface coating and expose the raw metal..

Using a pair of vice-grip type pliers to hold the cartridge in position, position the empty primed cartridge over the sanded spot on the sheet metal and strike the primer (gloves, eye & ear protection are good ideas for this test)...
The blast from the primer will deposit material on the sheet metal do not wipe it off.
Place the piece of sheet metal in an area where higher humidity is normal for the environment (bathroom for example)... If rust and corrosion begin forming quickly in the area where the primer blast was focused, chances are the primer material is corrosive (Sodium Petrochlorate).. This is a quick and dirty test... I've tried this with primers from ammo which I know to be corrosive (Russian bulk 7.62x54r) and it works well for testing.. Non corrosive primer material like lead stypnate will not create a corrosive salt and will not rapidly rust the exposed metal... This is an outdoor activity by the way...

If anyone tries this take a few pictures over time... I wish I had done that...

[tpd223]

Tula has never used corrosive primers in their commercial export ammo.

[Green-Water]

It is non corosive crap crap crap crap crap crap.

I have never had so much trouble with ammo as I have had with this stuff. I bought a couple of boxes from Walmart to do some cheap shooting and i so regret it. It won't cycle in my 20" HBAR A3 bushmaster. It seems to be underpowered and won't cycle the carrier group far enough to pick up the next round. It leaves a scratch in the steel casing 3/4 down the side where it doesn't go back far enough.

So after that failure I tried to finish off the partial box in my 9" AR pistol. It cycles but would fail to feed, for some reason the bolt would lock back. Before I could finish the box I had a steel casing stick in the chamber. I had to pound it out with a borrowed cleaning rod. I didn't find someone with a rod until we were about to leave so my gun sat for most of the time we were there.

You could blame it on my ARs or the ammo I had picked up as a bad batch....but. On the way there we stopped and picked up some 40SW for my friend to shoot in his IMI mini desert eagle. He had just as much trouble witht the 40 as I did with the 223. It would FTF and at times when it did feed you could feel the gun hiccup as it would fail to smoothly load the next round. It also locked up twice with the bullet half way up the ramp with both the slide and the mag jammed.

The stuff is crap.

Good to know!! I just purchased 100 rounds of this stuff yesterday and there's no way I'm running it through my new Sig. I should have known better than to go with the cheapest ammo I could find. I'll stick with WWB or Federal from now on.

Hopefully I can find someone who doesn't have a problem with Tulammo and will want to buy 100 rounds at a discounted price!!

Thanks for the heads up!

[tpd223]

Good to know!! I just purchased 100 rounds of this stuff yesterday and there's no way I'm running it through my new Sig. I should have known better than to go with the cheapest ammo I could find. I'll stick with WWB or Federal from now on.

Hopefully I can find someone who doesn't have a problem with Tulammo and will want to buy 100 rounds at a discounted price!!

Thanks for the heads up!

I've run better than 1000 rounds of Tula through my Colt ARs and never had an issue, this would be in addition to Wolf and Brown and Silver Bear ammo.

Every AR I have ever seen with issues with this ammo has been due to how the gun was assembled, or an off-brand gun like the Oly or Bushampster.