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Motor Oil

This is a discussion on Motor Oil within the Off-Topic forums, part of the Main Category category; Originally Posted by JJFlash ~~~ We old-timers do remember when we used to dump it on our crushed limestone driveways! ...

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by JJFlash View Post
    ~~~ We old-timers do remember when we used to dump it on our crushed limestone driveways! Now, this old dawg has stopped doing that.
    Yup, Even the county would come by in the spring and coat the roads with used oil. It was used to keep the dust down.

    My last new truck had it's first change at 300 miles and every 5k after that. Always at a local Oil change place with a good computer file system. and Always with Castrol Synthetic.
    Some of the Synthetics are classed as semi or blended with mineral oils... check the labels!
    Semper Fi

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    Quote Originally Posted by JJFlash View Post
    I, too, religiously change the oil in vehicles every 3000 miles, 1500 for the bike, and do not use synthetics.

    I asked an old mechanic many years ago (you know, the guy who really knew stuff), and he said if you are diligent in changing the oil, synthetics are un-necessary. Stands to reason, I guess, if you change before a hard breakdown of the oil...

    That habit has worked for me for about 40 years, now, and I drive vehicles into the 150,000 mile range...No new tricks for this old dawg...
    Let me guess he went out of business due to lack of knowledge.... less heat = less friction = less wear= longer engine life... it ain't rocket sicence....
    "The sword dose not cause the murder, and the maker of the sword dose not bear sin" Rabbi Solomon ben Isaac 11th century
    "Don't be so open minded that your brains fall out!" Father John Corapi.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sheldon View Post
    Let me guess he went out of business due to lack of knowledge.... less heat = less friction = less wear= longer engine life... it ain't rocket sicence....
    Nope, lived to a comfortable, ripe old age.

    I guess I don't get what you're sayin', Sheldon. If the regular oil is changed as it should be, you have less heat, less friction, longer engine life. So, what part of this non-rocket science am I missing?

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    Quote Originally Posted by JJFlash View Post
    Nope, lived to a comfortable, ripe old age.I guess I don't get what you're saying', Sheldon. If the regular oil is changed as it should be, you have less heat, less friction, longer engine life. So, what part of this non-rocket science am I missing?
    with that level of just plain bad advice I'm surprised... but you know the old saying "you can slide a long ways on BS" and he must have been full of it....

    What I am saying is look at the industry studies, synthetic oil is more slippery, holds it's viscosity in a far wider temperature extremes both + and -, is a far more aggressive cleaner, does not have the same architecture that allows regular oils to break down, yes a good quality filter is a must.

    Take two identical engines put 100,000 miles on them under identical conditions, you change your oil at 3,000 and I will do mine at the recommended 5,000+ and then do a tear down.... the engine with the synthetic will show virtually no internal wear, no so for the conventional oil.

    So be cheap buy regular motor oil if you want but you will go through 3 engines on my one....
    "The sword dose not cause the murder, and the maker of the sword dose not bear sin" Rabbi Solomon ben Isaac 11th century
    "Don't be so open minded that your brains fall out!" Father John Corapi.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Red Hat View Post
    Oil formulas have changed so much over the years. Castrol was our best seller followed by Havoline when I managed an Advance Auto store. Quaker State was one of my worst sellers. The mechanics always said they didn't like tearing down an engine that used Quaker state because of all the sludge.
    I knew I read something about Q-State in here... From what I understand now, is Q-State has a high ratio of paraffin. I lost a 318 Dodge a few years ago to sludge build up. The build up on the oil pick up was amazing. Even though the motor was still within the warrenty period Chrsyler refused to cover the motor. Pulling a 20 ft SeaRay boat at freeway speeds does build up heat, breaking down the Oil. That was the last Chyrsler and the end of changing my own oil.
    Semper Fi

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    Quote Originally Posted by ricbak View Post
    I knew I read something about Q-State in here... From what I understand now, is Q-State has a high ratio of paraffin. I lost a 318 Dodge a few years ago to sludge build up. The build up on the oil pick up was amazing. Even though the motor was still within the warrenty period Chrsyler refused to cover the motor. Pulling a 20 ft SeaRay boat at freeway speeds does build up heat, breaking down the Oil. That was the last Chyrsler and the end of changing my own oil.
    So Does Pens Oil which damn near destroyed an (before I switche the syn) engine when the viscosity broke down under load n the stuff turned in to 10W oil.....
    "The sword dose not cause the murder, and the maker of the sword dose not bear sin" Rabbi Solomon ben Isaac 11th century
    "Don't be so open minded that your brains fall out!" Father John Corapi.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sheldon View Post
    with that level of just plain bad advice I'm surprised... but you know the old saying "you can slide a long ways on BS" and he must have been full of it....

    What I am saying is look at the industry studies, synthetic oil is more slippery, holds it's viscosity in a far wider temperature extremes both + and -, is a far more aggressive cleaner, does not have the same architecture that allows regular oils to break down, yes a good quality filter is a must.

    Take two identical engines put 100,000 miles on them under identical conditions, you change your oil at 3,000 and I will do mine at the recommended 5,000+ and then do a tear down.... the engine with the synthetic will show virtually no internal wear, no so for the conventional oil.

    So be cheap buy regular motor oil if you want but you will go through 3 engines on my one....
    And I'm saying my reality is I buy a good used truck, say 50,000 miles on it, change it with regular oil quite faithfullly, and put at least another 100,000 and sell it with the engine running strong. What's not to like?

    Not interested in putting 1,000,000 miles on the thing, although I'll probably hit 200,000 on my current truck (won't tell you the make cause I don't want you to have a coronary). I bought the product for what I deemed a fair price, got my fair use out of it with routine maintenance, and sold it to someone else who got what they wanted at obviously what they considered a fair price.

    All in all, has worked just fine for 40 years, like I said. You feel free to save the whales, or something.

  8. #28
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    Mobil 1 or Castrol Syntec. Both full synthetic oils.. Buy the 5qt jugs at Wal-Mart $22.00 or so.. I change it 6-7000 miles. I also use BG product MOA and swear by it as the stuff really works.

    10 years in the automotive service industry ASE & Toyota Master Technician.

    Welcome to BG Products, Inc.

    Peace...
    You can give peace a chance alright..

    I'll seek cover in case it goes badly..

  9. #29
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    Here are some tidbits for you all to chew on.


    Castrol is made by British Petroleum (BP).


    Valvoline is made by Ashland Oil.


    Pennzoil, Quaker State and Supertech (Walmart's house brand) is made by Shell Oil Products US (SOPUS).


    The best choice is to NOT buy synthetic blends. Buy only full synthetic or regular conventional oils. Most blends only contain 1-2% synthetic, the rest being conventional. There is no government or industry standards on "blends" and soem that have been tested showed very little synthetic in them. Save your money or get the pure stuff, but the blends are marketing hype.


    The 3,000 mile oil change was a marketing campaign developed by Jiffy Lube. Those of us in the business have known it to be true for years. Best advice, read your owners manual! The company that designed your car's engine knows best.


    What does the "weight" of motor oil mean? What is a multi-weight?
    Back in the day, you bought 30 weight or 40 weight oil. Lower number meant it flowed better when you started the car, higher number meant it protected better at full operating temperature.


    Today almost all auto manufacturers recommend a multi weight oil, usually 5w-20, 5w-30 or 10w-30. The second number is the oil weight (it's viscosity, just like above single weights) at normal engine operating temps, but the first number is the viscosity at cold startup temps. The "w" stands for winter. So a 5w-30 protects your engine like a 30 weight at normal engine temps (because that's what it is) but when it's cold outside the oil will flow like a 5 weight. It's able to do this because of added polymers that change the viscosity at cold temps but don't change it at higher temps. Best advice is to use the type your auto manufacturer recommends, and stick with it.


    Hope this stuff helps a little.

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stiofan View Post
    Here are some tidbits for you all to chew on.


    Castrol is made by British Petroleum (BP).


    Valvoline is made by Ashland Oil.


    Pennzoil, Quaker State and Supertech (Walmart's house brand) is made by Shell Oil Products US (SOPUS).


    The best choice is to NOT buy synthetic blends. Buy only full synthetic or regular conventional oils. Most blends only contain 1-2% synthetic, the rest being conventional. There is no government or industry standards on "blends" and soem that have been tested showed very little synthetic in them. Save your money or get the pure stuff, but the blends are marketing hype.


    The 3,000 mile oil change was a marketing campaign developed by Jiffy Lube. Those of us in the business have known it to be true for years. Best advice, read your owners manual! The company that designed your car's engine knows best.


    What does the "weight" of motor oil mean? What is a multi-weight?
    Back in the day, you bought 30 weight or 40 weight oil. Lower number meant it flowed better when you started the car, higher number meant it protected better at full operating temperature.


    Today almost all auto manufacturers recommend a multi weight oil, usually 5w-20, 5w-30 or 10w-30. The second number is the oil weight (it's viscosity, just like above single weights) at normal engine operating temps, but the first number is the viscosity at cold startup temps. The "w" stands for winter. So a 5w-30 protects your engine like a 30 weight at normal engine temps (because that's what it is) but when it's cold outside the oil will flow like a 5 weight. It's able to do this because of added polymers that change the viscosity at cold temps but don't change it at higher temps. Best advice is to use the type your auto manufacturer recommends, and stick with it.


    Hope this stuff helps a little.
    Ahhhhh... Education is the key to enlightenment... SAE is the group that grades the oil viscosity and has established the standard.

    "Best advice is to use the type your auto manufacturer recommends, and stick with it". And I'll add to that, read the owners manual for oil change frequency guidelines. There are 2 ways to go about it. Read it cover to cover like a novel or use the index and find the section related to the topic you need information on.

    Motor Oils and Engine Lubrication Book: Motor Oil Engineers

    SAE International

    Peace...
    You can give peace a chance alright..

    I'll seek cover in case it goes badly..

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