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Thread: Building a gun safe.

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Wurz View Post
    I just got a Sentinel safe from Walmart holds up to 18 rifles (Interior is easily reconfigured), Only cost $150.00
    A gun cabinet for $150. Up to 18 rifles for several thousand smackers. A thug & his bud with 4 minutes, 2 crow bars and sledge say "priceless".

    We can be a cruel if not an honest bunch here.
    1)"When injustice becomes law, resistance becomes duty." -Thomas Jefferson.
    2)"Imagine how gun control might be stomped if GOA or SAF had the (compromising) NRA's 4 million members!" -Me. http://jpfo.org/filegen-n-z/nraletter.htm

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  3. #12
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    I'm familiar with both, I actually hadn't thought about using wood though. Something to think about...

  4. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Wurz View Post
    I just got a Sentinel safe from Walmart holds up to 18 rifles (Interior is easily reconfigured), Only cost $150.00
    I prefer a fire safe. But imo this is still a good option. Keeps kids safe. All ammo guns locked up. A thief can pry it open but if you have records your homeowners/renters insurance will replace them. Sometimes ppl can't or want to spare $1k ?????

  5. Tips on Building Your own

    Quote Originally Posted by roperjustin View Post
    I am looking at building a gun safe and was hoping to get some ideas of what to include in it. go nuts yall just lookin into it at the moment but I want to have it done in the next 2 months tops. Dont have the funds for a safe that I really want but I figure I can make one for much less. Any and all ideas are helpful. Thanks yall

    The Small Closet Idea is a Good One, I just started looking at what it would take to do it,
    If You look at a standard door Jam, There is a skinny piece of wood called the door stop. On a 6" wall there is about 2" on Either Side of the Door Stop,
    So, You need a piece of Steel That will be 2" wide, The full length of the door, or 12" sections, and Lag the piece of metal to the existing Jam, on the inside door stop

    Then The opposite side, and The top. The Door Part and Hinge I havent figured out yet, But what is cool is you leave your original closet door, installed, so You will have a
    double door, when the robber opens the closet door and sees a metal, safe, door, He will probly move on.The New Electronic key code digital deadbolts look pretty good,
    except with a good wack with a sledge hammer, I would bet You can smash em apart good enough to gain access. You really need Safe Type Mechanisms, ( Locksmith )
    to make is secure.

    I dont like the idea of Pad Locks those can be simply cut with bolt cutters.

    Keep in Touch with Your progress.
    Ltr

  6. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by diozark View Post
    The Small Closet Idea is a Good One, I just started looking at what it would take to do it,
    If You look at a standard door Jam, There is a skinny piece of wood called the door stop. On a 6" wall there is about 2" on Either Side of the Door Stop,
    So, You need a piece of Steel That will be 2" wide, The full length of the door, or 12" sections, and Lag the piece of metal to the existing Jam, on the inside door stop

    Then The opposite side, and The top. The Door Part and Hinge I havent figured out yet, But what is cool is you leave your original closet door, installed, so You will have a
    double door, when the robber opens the closet door and sees a metal, safe, door, He will probly move on.The New Electronic key code digital deadbolts look pretty good,
    except with a good wack with a sledge hammer, I would bet You can smash em apart good enough to gain access. You really need Safe Type Mechanisms, ( Locksmith )
    to make is secure.

    I dont like the idea of Pad Locks those can be simply cut with bolt cutters.

    Keep in Touch with Your progress.
    Ltr
    When you use pad locks, you should also use a guard. Then it takes a cutoff saw or a flame wrench to get to the lock. Make the guard out of 304L stainless and it will be tough to get thru. You'll see the guard used on shipping containers used for storage.
    NRA Certified Pistol Instructor
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    Normal is an illusion. What is normal to the spider is chaos to the fly.

  7. #16
    Well if you know the right places - You could hire a crew to custom build it (super expensive cost)

    Or get some sheet steel - 1/4 inch thick or so - have it cut to fit your chosen closet location.. Weld/bolt parts together from inside.
    Replace the closet door with a more secure steel core fire rated door. - maybe cover it with some kind of veneer to blend it in.
    Or you could go crazy with vault door - but thats 2+ guys and special installation..

    For wood option - id get large sheets of 1/2 inch plywood, cut to size for your closet/room/whatever -apply to wall with liquid nail and screws.
    Once that parts done - on inside use steel studs around inside like normal wall/floor building (think box within box)
    in the space you just created with the new walls - fill with fire resistant insulation - then apply a double drywall sandwich 1 layer over other and cover seems.
    Replace the door with secure / fire rated door - (no getting around it really) - use 3 dead bolts 1 high / 1 mid / 1 low. (preferable keyed differently / made by different manufacturers. - reinforce the area around the door using either steel cladding around the 2x4 --

    depends really how much you want to spend / or how outside the box you want to be.

  8. #17
    Wow, a couple of these would make a great "Man Cave" just add a tapper or fridge. I opted for just a fire safe with the electronic lock bolted to the barn floor, now wish I would have bought a larger safe. I didn't think about the inherited guns.

  9. Quote Originally Posted by roperjustin View Post
    I am looking at building a gun safe and was hoping to get some ideas of what to include in it. go nuts yall just lookin into it at the moment but I want to have it done in the next 2 months tops. Dont have the funds for a safe that I really want but I figure I can make one for much less. Any and all ideas are helpful. Thanks yall
    It's going to be more complicated and cost more than you think to build it yourself. You could take all that time you are going to spend trying to build something and apply it to a part time job for a couple months and buy a nice safe that meets your needs. Unless you have some good connections at a fab shop and you are able to do the CAD drawings to cut the steel, it's going to be hard to do a one-off. Cutting steel is expensive unless it is in quantity.

    I do understand that it could be a cool project if that's what you want. Here's a link to a young man that built one as a school project last year. It might give you a little more insight to what it actually takes. Keep in mind, his door isn't recessed flush like most safes (or even RSC's) are for additional pry resistance. Good luck on your mission if you decide to accept it

    Here's the link to his build: Homemade Gun Safe (In Progress) - The Firing Line Forums

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