best way to clean
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Thread: best way to clean

  1. #1

    best way to clean

    for all those out there, whats the best way to clean your gun after a trip to the range or just to make sure its clean. i know the general idea, strip it and clean the barrel, slide, and frame, bu tis there anything else. i just use a gun cloth on the slide, and frame, and dry patches to clean the inside of the barrel. am i missing anything??

    thank you~

  2.   
  3. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Santa Fe Area, New Mexico
    Posts
    3,487
    Hoppes #9, light gun oil and Dry Graphite lube for the slide if an Automatic or hs a breech. Graphite powder will not attract dust and hold dirt that may enter your breech, oil will. That's all I ever used but I'm no expert.
    "The smallest minority on earth is the individual. Those who deny individual rights cannot claim to be defenders of minorities." --author and philosopher Ayn Rand (1905-1982)

  4. #3
    handgonnetoter Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by aj's 40 cal View Post
    for all those out there, whats the best way to clean your gun after a trip to the range or just to make sure its clean. i know the general idea, strip it and clean the barrel, slide, and frame, bu tis there anything else. i just use a gun cloth on the slide, and frame, and dry patches to clean the inside of the barrel. am i missing anything??

    thank you~
    Well, in my opinion, you still should use solvents to clean the barrel out. You can get build up of metals from the bullets on the rifling, and solvents are about the only way that I know of to get some of that out. I also like to use Birchwood Casey's "Synthentic Safe" blast free cleaner on the grip frame. Then a light coating of Rem oil and its good to go.

  5. #4

    really nice !!!!!!!!!!!!

    Hornady One Shoot gun cleaner & dry lube & Frog Grease is really nice !!!! Krell oil let it set in the barrel for 1/2 hour after hoppies 9 works really good also and then for ***** and grines I'll run some J&B ...

  6. #5

    Clean a pistol

    First, always remove the barrel and clean from the chamber end. Rifle brushes are the best bang for the buck. The short pistol brushes are for cleaning from the muzzle (Don't) and are sized to clear the chamber so they can be reversed. Kroil is a very good penetrating solvent as is Hope's. If you shoot lead, wet patch, let set, then brush. If you shoot copper, use a copper solvent, wet patch, let set longer, brush and dry patch. I you get green on the dry patch, it may still have copper on the barrel or it's from the brush. Always wash the copper solvent off the brush or it will eventually eat it up. If your accuracy has gone south, soak the barrel over night and brush the hell out of it. Look for lead slivers on the first dry patch, I wrap a dry patch around a worn brush for a tight fit. Same for scrubbing with a wet patch.
    I specialize in 1911's so: I use a .22 brush to clean the extractor port (it can collect allot of fouling and affect the extraction) after removing the firing pin stop and the extractor. If it's a series 80 with a firing pin safety, you have to push the plunger in to push the firing pin in to clear the stop. Move the extractor out slightly to clear the plunger so it will pop out with it's spring. I thread a piece of brass for a handle on the brush but vice grips will work. Clean the fowling off the extractor hook.
    I fill a G.I. ammo box with solvent for heavy cleaning. The rubber gasket on the lid stops the solvent evaporation. Auto paint and supply shops sell a pre-paint cleaning solvent that works great. Prep Solve is a trade name.
    I use synthetic ATF to lube all moving parts. Brownell's sells a nice needle oiler. Some gun oils evaporate so look for that. I like a light grease on the lower lug where it contacts the slide stop pin, like Lubriplate.
    After you assemble the gun:
    For a 1911, put the gun in slide lock and put a few drops on each slide rail, the barrel to lube the bushing area, the guide rod if full length and if you forgot to pre-lube the upper locking lugs, turn the gun upside down and oil the top of the slide through the ejection port. Close the slide and work it back and forth a few times, The hammer will be cocked so put a few drops of oil on the front of the hammer face as far down as you can reach to lube the the hammer/sear engagement ledge . A drop of oil on the plungers at the slide stop and the safety.

    In a 1911, With the slide removed, to remove the hammer and sear, cock the hammer, put the thumb safety in the mid position and pull out on it, a safety razor blade will help you lift it off the frame. When the thumb safety is centered in the mid removal detent, it's up and down or on/off movement will be stopped, now you can lift/pull it out. Lower the hammer to not damage the frame. Push the main spring pin out, slide out the main spring housing. Push the hammer/sear pins out from the right side of the gun. ****All pins are removed from and installed from the left side of the gun. Shake out the sear and disconnector. To remove the trigger, push the mag release all the way in until you can rotate the screw CCW about 90*s, remember it looks like a screw but it's not a SCREW. It's a cam with a screw head. push and release the mag release until you can gently turn the screw, it has to be aligned with a slot in the frame or it won't turn. Remove the mag release. The trigger will now slide out.

    I use a tooth brush to scrub the frame in the solvent tank. Compressed air if you have it, to blow dry all the parts. You can pull a shop rag through the mag well housing to clean/dry the inside of the frame.

    Install the trigger with a drop of oil on the bows, install the mag release the same way you removed it only CW this time. The flat side of the disconnector fits against the flat on the trigger bows, the sear is shaped like a "C" with the C facing the rear the gun/hammer with the leg facing down where it rides on the disconnector. I use a dental pick through the frame sear hole on the left to align the sear/disconnector/frame holes so the pin will slide in from the left side. Install the Hammer, pull the strut away from the frame and install the sear spring, fingers up the 90* bend on the bottom fits into the slot in the frame. Install the main spring housing, On a stock gun you have to slide the grip safety into position before you slide the main spring housing full up to align the hole for the pin. Tap the pin in place, cock the hammer and install the thumb safety/safeties if Ambi. Use a thin flat tool to push the plunger in so the thumb safety will seat all the way. Check thumb safety for full travel, check the trigger/hammer release (protect the frame from hammer strike) If something is wrong, the sear spring has slipped off the sear and is under the sear leg. Start over again. remove the thumb safety, main spring housing to where you can re-install the sear spring correctly.

    I believe a gun should be shot without cleaning until it malfunctions, keep a round count and now you know when you really need to clean the gun. Also keep track off accuracy. when it starts to fall off, the barrel needs cleaned.

    Cheers, Curt

    Briggs Custom Gun Works

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Carroll County, MD
    Posts
    10
    Quote Originally Posted by aj's 40 cal View Post
    for all those out there, whats the best way to clean your gun after a trip to the range or just to make sure its clean. i know the general idea, strip it and clean the barrel, slide, and frame, bu tis there anything else. i just use a gun cloth on the slide, and frame, and dry patches to clean the inside of the barrel. am i missing anything??

    thank you~
    My basic "after a day at the range" cleaning is:

    1) Wipe down everything with a dry cloth (frame, slide, guide, spring, barrel)
    2) Run dry bore brush through barrel (10-15 two-way runs)
    3) Run solvent soaked patch through barrel (Hoppes #9, etc.) and let sit
    4) Dry brush frame and slide
    5) Rub entire frame, slide, guide, and spring with wet (oil soaked patch), inside and out, all nooks and crannies
    6) Wet (oiled) brush (nylon) breech face. Pay special attention to the inside corners and inside the crook of the extractor
    7) Wipe down everything with a dry cloth
    8) Nylon/plastic pick the inside corners of the breech face
    9) Wipe down frame and slide, inside and out, with lightly oiled patch
    10) Apply light coating of TW25B to rails and grooves of slide and frame
    11) Run dry patch on a jag through barrel to remove solvent
    12) Run solvent soaked patch through barrel and let sit (2nd solvent run)
    13) Disassemble magazines and brush with dry brush
    14) Rub entire magazine tube and follower/feeder with wet (oiled) patch or mop
    15) Wipe magazine tube and follower/feeder with dry cloth
    16) Wipe magazine tube and spring with lightly oiled patch
    17) Reassemble magazines
    18) Run dry patches through barrel until they come through dry
    19) Run oil soaked patch through barrel, back and forth, without letting jag exit completely at either end
    20) Run one dry patch on jag through barrel
    21) Apply light film of TW25B to exterior of barrel
    22) Wipe guide and spring with oiled patch
    23) Reassemble everything
    24) Lightly wipe exterior of slide and frame with dry cloth to remove excess oil

    This keeps mine nice and clean and takes about 1 hour for gun and 2 mags.

    Your mileage may vary, not available at all locations, quantities limited, and all those other disclaimers.

    Phoenix
    Politics compromises principles.
    Doing what's right, means doing what may not be popular.

  8. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Phoenix_1295 View Post
    (2nd solvent run)
    13) Disassemble magazines and brush with dry brush
    Every time??? Holy Crap!

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