What is the best gun cleaning products? - Page 5
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Thread: What is the best gun cleaning products?

  1. Best gun cleaning products

    There are many good products on the market for cleaning guns, but they must be used CORRECTLY. Don't get in the habit of spraying down your gun with WD-40 or CLP or any other product, wiping off the excess and dropping it in the holster. Those products are made to penetrate into the smallest places, and do so only too well, and can penetrate the primer cup and kill the round of ammo. There is no noise in the world louder than a click when you expect a bang, especially when an eight-foot tall monster is trying to bash your head in. I use Hoppe's No, 9, brushes and patches, and clean my XD-45 the way I was taught in a state prison armory. After cleaning and drying the piece, one or two drops of Remington reel oil on the frame rails and then a wipe down with a silicone gun cloth. Having a stainless weapon really helps. Make sure your weapon fires first time,every time.
    A man without a gun is a subject; a man with a gun is a citizen.
    I'll keep my freedom, my guns and my money. You can keep THE CHANGE.
    An armed society is a polite society.

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  3. #42
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    13
    MOST cleaners and lubes out on market are derived from OIL/CRUDE OIL.
    Crude oil , like gasoline and petroleum, Dissolve polymer at the molecular level, meaning the polymer simply breaks apart and you CANT see it happening!

    The ONLY cleaning & lubes I use are: SLIP2000 (EWL is good for everything imaginable)
    and TW25B on the rails and high friction points

    Slip2000 contact: 707-585-8329 or [email protected]TW25B is made by Mil Comm and thier #: 1-888-9 Grease or [email protected]

    RULE:
    if its made for steel, it may HARM polymer
    If it's polymer-safe, its safe for everything!
    Whenever there is doubt, There is no doubt.

  4. #43
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Las Vegas, Nevada
    Posts
    623

    Thumbs up

    Quote Originally Posted by donc View Post
    nothin like the smell of hopes #9 in the morning .....hahahhahah
    I agree. Good old #9 helps not only my guns, but hides my morning breath as well.

  5. #44
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Auburn, IN
    Posts
    39
    Can't say enough good things about Otis Products. The first cleaning kit I purchased was the Otis Tactical kit. Sure Otis' products are a bit more expensive BUT they quickly make up for it. When the Dealer I vatunteered for around 2001 seen the kit I had he ordered in a whole display system. Otis' CS is 2nd to None as well.

  6. #45
    G96 CLP best stuff out there!!!

  7. #46
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    34

    Odderless mineral spirits!

    Oderless mineral spirits is what some gunsmiths have used for a long long time. They seem to go threw a couple of gallons a year for cleaning and to WET emery cloth BEFORE using on a gun.
    I just tried an experiment that you too can try. We had a week or so of below 20 degree weather. I took a long sheet of aluminum foil out to my shed, took a shoe box and cut the bottom out of it. placed it on the foil and used every lube I had, moving the box down the foil until I ran out of gun lubes. Some were sray and some not. By doing it inside the box I avoided any OVER SPRAY. Ballistol (gelled up- NOT good) also FP10 a synthetic also gelled up- NOT good). CPL or CLP stayed very thin and I will use it during the winter monthes here in Massachusetts. I had two dry lubes and they did work well, drying fast and leaving a good film of dry lube on the foil. The one I bought was LIQUID WRENCH DRY LUBE, from Walmart, under three dollars for a big spray can. My frame parts including my magazine well will get this lube. Ballistol will be NOW used in-place of grease, as it is a gel at low temperatures (must be made with a little grease added).
    One very important thing I found is KEEP SPRAY LUBES or any lube away from your AMMO. Most if not ALL are penitrating oils and WILL cause a penitration into your ammo, which will cause it to miss fire. I now wipe out the camber from the mag to the bore entry hole VERY VERY good and my foiling that I was blaming on bad ammo WENT AWAY. I have two 22's that were foiling with just about any ammo until I read this and started using a DRY rag AFTER CLEANING to get rid of all EXCESS lubes. If you have an auto-loader whip it with mineral spirts or rubbing alchol but DO NOT use any oil on the inside where it comes in contact with ammo. Retired and loving it!

  8. #47
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    OHIO
    Posts
    100
    Clenzoil.......amazing stuff that does it all.

  9. I like Strike Hold. SF operators invented it and works great!

  10. #49
    Hoppes #9 to clean and Militec for lube.
    AL
    Proverbs 25:28 - A man without self control is like a city broken into and left without walls.

  11. #50
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    34
    I tried a simple test that anyone can do. I'm a new guy and have ALL SORTS of cleaning soutions. One very cold day (minus 5) I went out to the shed with a ling piece of aluminum foil. Put a one inch by 6 inch application of each on the foil and came back the next day and checked them out (leaving each bottle over each application). Some gunked up badly (don't want to use them in the winter monthes). I went away really liking the "Liquid Wrench, DRY LUBE). Very good lube on all moving parts and a spray at Wal-mart is under 3 dollars. I forgot which one did best on the barrel but do remember some of the VERY expensive ones gunked up. Also found out (the hard way) most ALL gun oil is PENITRATING OIL. Use it in your chamber or anywhere around your ammo and you get a FTF. At least in 22lr. OIL and AMMO do not mix, I've got half a brick of ammo to prove that point. I cleaned my guns and wiped them with a DRY rag and haven't had a fail to fire FTF sense. Most gun smiths do or use to use and seem to use for cleaning is ODORLESS mineral spirts. Seems they use gallons of it per year. Must still be used outside or with a lot of ventilation, even odorless! One other thing I do is use a hoppies bore snake (at end there is a loop). I cut 2 inch patches into 1/2 inch by 2 and put it into that loop (halfway). Now I add oil to the patch so the last thing going threw the bore is an oiled patch.

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