Motor Oil - Page 2
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Thread: Motor Oil

  1. Chevron Delo 400 15/40 multigrade.

    A bit more dear than the common ones, a bit harder to find. BUT--- since it is formulated for heavy diesel engine service, it has a very strong set of additives, and holds its viscosity better than anythnig else I've seen, even other "diesel service" oils. I typically double the recommended change intervals, the engines last longer, hold better oil pressure, have less sludge and buildup, than with other conventional oils. Costco and WalMart, at least out west, carry it. Most any truck stop will, as well. Gallon jugs, six to the case, the cheapest way to get it. And don't let the "diesel engine" service rating put you off.... been using it in gaspots for decades now, nothing makes them happier except maybe synthetic...... at a WHOLE lot more money.

    As to filters, Throw away fhe Fram. And most of the other consumer grade filters. I've seen most of them cut open and compared construction, amount of filter element, etc. Fram is the loser of the lot of them.

    Find a NAPA dealer and get their Silver or Gold line. or find a place that stock Wix, Baldwin, or, for the german made cars, any of the OEM qualty fiilters such as Mann,....

    the filter is probably more important than the oil itself, as it is the part that keeps things clean, removes grut, silt, metals, acids, water....... keeping the oil cleaner to do its job. I take Fram's advert line pretty seriously.. "pay a little more now, or a lot more later". Yep, buy a better filter than the fram, for a bit more money now, and you won't be paying a lot more later due to compromising on the filter and buying the fram. Thay advertise well, and thus have bought market share. They'd have done better putting their money into quality filters than marketing.

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  3. #12
    Join Date
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    Gray Court, SC
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    Oil is only as good as the oil filter can filter it. Here is a good article on filtration and volume. Efficient Oil Filtration Recommend : Motor Oil
    USAF Retired, CATM, SC CWP, NH NR CWP, NRA Benefactor
    To preserve liberty, it is essential that the whole body of people always possess arms, and be taught alike, especially when young, how to use them... -- Richard Henry Lee, 1787

  4. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by Red Hat View Post
    Any brand of Synthetic oil will work. There are no additives to wear out. The only problem with Synthetic oil is contaminates. A good oil filter is needed for extended miles. I use the Purolator PureOne on all my vehicles. Also be careful using Synthetic oil on some motorcycles. Some say its OK to use it in wet clutches and some don't. A friend of mine used it and it took him forever to clean it out using regular oil. He went about a mile and it started slipping. I would use it if the MC came with synthetic oil and if it didn't I would use what they recommend.
    There is a class of oil out there and it says fuel save or Gas Saver or something like that in the circle that tells you the oil standard the oil meets.. For a motorcycle stay away from that stuff.. It has "Friction Modifiers" in it that are bad for wet clutches.. Your standard oils and Synthetics are fine in motorcycles..
    I've got over 70K miles on my bike, running mostly synthetic (Not sure what the guy before me used, but had synthetic when I bought it). Bike still uses NO oil and runs like knew..

    Gulf Coast, Floriduh
    Sccy is the limit

  5. #14
    Ok here we go. I change all my vehicles every three thousand miles. Period. I use mostly pensoil, but valvoline is there too. I tried synthetic in the motorcycle, but couldn't really justify the $6 cost a quart. I just did a valve adjustment on the bike this weekend, and it looks like the first time. No wear to speak of.
    That's my dollarthreeeightyseven. (two cents adjusted for inflation)

  6. You ladies and gentlemen have really opened my eyes, particularly as far as oil filters go. I have done a ton of research today. Ive been looking over studies that people have done with oil filers where they have broken them down and examined the inner workings of the unit. I still dont know what Im switching to, But I know fram is gone. I think Im going to make a jump to Penzoil as far as oil is concerned.
    Retired US Army Medic
    Proud Husband, Dad and Christian
    www.nationofshooters.com

  7. #16
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
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    Tampa Bay Area
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    Just changed the Oil in my 02 Silverado yesterday. I run Mobile1 full synthetic. I've also started using full synthetic in my sportbikes. I may be crazy but it runs a little cooler and shifts a lot smoother.
    "When Government fears the people, it's liberty. When people fear the Government, it's tyranny."
    - Benjamin Franklin

  8. #17
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by KimberPB View Post
    Just changed the Oil in my 02 Silverado yesterday. I run Mobile1 full synthetic. I've also started using full synthetic in my sportbikes. I may be crazy but it runs a little cooler and shifts a lot smoother.
    No you are not crazy a good quality (not all synthetics are created equal) due to significantly lower internal friction will cause an engine to run cooler!

    Think not ask the classic car guys out in Arizona, Texas, and NM.... since they switched to full synthetics in their cars they no longer have over heating issues when in the summer pariades......

    Same goes for guys that race a heap, synthetic in the tranny and differential make a huge difference in equipment longevity and lower temperatures during runs...
    "The sword dose not cause the murder, and the maker of the sword dose not bear sin" Rabbi Solomon ben Isaac 11th century
    "Don't be so open minded that your brains fall out!" Father John Corapi.

  9. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by williemartin View Post
    Ok here we go. I change all my vehicles every three thousand miles. Period. I use mostly pensoil, but valvoline is there too. I tried synthetic in the motorcycle, but couldn't really justify the $6 cost a quart. I just did a valve adjustment on the bike this weekend, and it looks like the first time. No wear to speak of.
    That's my dollarthreeeightyseven. (two cents adjusted for inflation)
    I, too, religiously change the oil in vehicles every 3000 miles, 1500 for the bike, and do not use synthetics.

    I asked an old mechanic many years ago (you know, the guy who really knew stuff), and he said if you are diligent in changing the oil, synthetics are un-necessary. Stands to reason, I guess, if you change before a hard breakdown of the oil...

    That habit has worked for me for about 40 years, now, and I drive vehicles into the 150,000 mile range...No new tricks for this old dawg...

  10. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by JJFlash View Post
    I, too, religiously change the oil in vehicles every 3000 miles, 1500 for the bike, and do not use synthetics.

    I asked an old mechanic many years ago (you know, the guy who really knew stuff), and he said if you are diligent in changing the oil, synthetics are un-necessary. Stands to reason, I guess, if you change before a hard breakdown of the oil...

    That habit has worked for me for about 40 years, now, and I drive vehicles into the 150,000 mile range...No new tricks for this old dawg...
    Here is my thinking on this, and you are old enough to remember the analogy...
    40+ years ago, how often did you change tires?? Before Polyglass and radials tires... Remember??

    You changed your tires every 10-12K miles.. That's all bias tires were good for...
    Do you still change your tires every 12K miles??? Why??? IF you did, you would probably never have an issue with a tire!!!
    You don't.. The tires you buy today will easily go 35K and some go more than 50K..
    So why don't you change tires every 12K.. Because of tire technology improvements..

    Oil is the same way... the 3,000 mile rule was just like the 12K mile tires replacement.. It was a great rule to live by...
    However just like tires are different, so is Oil today.. there have been great technology improvements to oil. It is just made much better today than it was 50 years ago.. Even the car company's (who stand to loose money in their shops) have finally gotten off the 3K recommendations for oil... Most recommend 7K mile changes today and that is with conventional "Dino" oil.. Car companies have done their research and that is why they have changed the intervals..

    So, is it a great rule to change your oil every 3K miles.. It won't hurt anything but your wallet and the environment..

    I agree with the "invest in a good filter".. BUT be a little careful with the info on the filter comparisons on the Net.. Many of them were done 5+ years ago and several companies have completely redesigned their filters since the comparisons.. (Amsoil for one)..

    Gulf Coast, Floriduh
    Sccy is the limit

  11. #20
    I hear ya, Hootmon, about not having to change the oil every 3000 miles, but I've tried that and just can't seem to break the habit...makes me nervous...and anxious...and twitchy...

    My wallet's ok so far and I do recycle the spent oil. We old-timers do remember when we used to dump it on our crushed limestone driveways! Now, this old dawg has stopped doing that.

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