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Thread: Motor Oil

  1. #31
    Back in the day I had heard that Amalie was some of the worst oil you could use. They used to have commercials that said"Amalie, better than it has to be". We used to say worse than it should be. It would leave a varnish like film that would screw up your engine.
    By faith Noah,being warned of God of things not seen as yet, moved with fear,prepared an ark to the saving of his house;by the which he condemned the world,and became heir of the righteousness which is by faith Heb.11:7

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  3. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by JJFlash View Post
    And I'm saying my reality is I buy a good used truck, say 50,000 miles on it, change it with regular oil quite faithfullly, and put at least another 100,000 and sell it with the engine running strong. What's not to like?

    Not interested in putting 1,000,000 miles on the thing, although I'll probably hit 200,000 on my current truck (won't tell you the make cause I don't want you to have a coronary). I bought the product for what I deemed a fair price, got my fair use out of it with routine maintenance, and sold it to someone else who got what they wanted at obviously what they considered a fair price.

    All in all, has worked just fine for 40 years, like I said. You feel free to save the whales, or something.
    Yeah lots of luck on that one, 150K on conventional oil and expecting it to still be a good strong running enigne....
    But if you were do an engine flush and then switch to a good quality synthetic then 150K would be no problem...
    I have tore down high mileage engines, for stuff such as blown head gaskets, and there is a huge difference between those that have run a good synthetic and those that ran conventional oil. Cam gear wear, cylinder wear, valve train wear, seal condition, just to name a few.... Say anything you want but engines run on full synthetic just do not wear out as badly and not just by a little bit but by a huge difference.
    "The sword dose not cause the murder, and the maker of the sword dose not bear sin" Rabbi Solomon ben Isaac 11th century
    "Don't be so open minded that your brains fall out!" Father John Corapi.

  4. #33
    Quote Originally Posted by Sheldon View Post
    Yeah lots of luck on that one, 150K on conventional oil and expecting it to still be a good strong running enigne....
    But if you were do an engine flush and then switch to a good quality synthetic then 150K would be no problem...
    I have tore down high mileage engines, for stuff such as blown head gaskets, and there is a huge difference between those that have run a good synthetic and those that ran conventional oil. Cam gear wear, cylinder wear, valve train wear, seal condition, just to name a few.... Say anything you want but engines run on full synthetic just do not wear out as badly and not just by a little bit but by a huge difference.
    Ok, man, I'll concede the point. Assuming your experience is what you say it is, your automotive expertise far exceeds mine. Synthetic it is.
    Prov. 27:3 - "Stone is heavy and sand a burden, but provocation by a fool is heavier than both"

  5. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sheldon View Post
    Yeah lots of luck on that one, 150K on conventional oil and expecting it to still be a good strong running enigne....
    But if you were do an engine flush and then switch to a good quality synthetic then 150K would be no problem...
    I have tore down high mileage engines, for stuff such as blown head gaskets, and there is a huge difference between those that have run a good synthetic and those that ran conventional oil. Cam gear wear, cylinder wear, valve train wear, seal condition, just to name a few.... Say anything you want but engines run on full synthetic just do not wear out as badly and not just by a little bit but by a huge difference.
    No need to do an engine flush to go from conventional petroleum-based oil to synthetic... Just change the oil and filter in regular recommended intervals. I've seen high mileage engines run on conventional motor oil that had regular service intervals performed and things looked fine. I use synthetic with the MOA to run longer between changes 6000-7500 miles. The last truck I owned I did the same oil change intervals. I sold it to my brother-in-law and it's still running with 208,000 on it.

    Former ASE and Toyota Master technician..
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  6. #35
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    Two deals this week

    Synthetic oil is synthetic oil. I was at Walmart a few days ago and I found Quaker State synthetic oil on clearance for $2.50 a quart. I bought all they had, 32 quarts. Yesterday I was checking them again and I found Quaker State 5 quart containers on clearance for $13 ea $7 off the regular price. I decided to get all 14 they had on the shelf. When I checked out they had made a mistake when they marked it down in the computer. I got all 14 for $7 ea. I don't have to buy any synthetic oil for years!

    BTY, it's all 5w 30.
    USAF Retired, CATM, SC CWP, NH NR CWP, NRA Benefactor
    To preserve liberty, it is essential that the whole body of people always possess arms, and be taught alike, especially when young, how to use them... -- Richard Henry Lee, 1787

  7. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by 6shootercarry View Post
    No need to do an engine flush to go from conventional petroleum-based oil to synthetic... Just change the oil and filter in regular recommended intervals. I've seen high mileage engines run on conventional motor oil that had regular service intervals performed and things looked fine. I use synthetic with the MOA to run longer between changes 6000-7500 miles. The last truck I owned I did the same oil change intervals. I sold it to my brother-in-law and it's still running with 208,000 on it.

    Former ASE and Toyota Master technician..
    True with cavieats..... if the previous owner did regular oil changes, however when buying any used (maybe abused) vehicles though, if they did not do regular services, or used a paraffin based oil (real sludge prone crap)......

    Syn oils tend to be more aggressive at cleaning your engine, and could break loose a heap of crud, unless you are checking your oil daily, it could turn to sludge without your knowledge pluging the oil passageways and hence cause a real nightmare.

    That is why I always recommend an engine flush on any used vehicle prior to a switch. When in doubt it is real cheap insurance.
    "The sword dose not cause the murder, and the maker of the sword dose not bear sin" Rabbi Solomon ben Isaac 11th century
    "Don't be so open minded that your brains fall out!" Father John Corapi.

  8. Quote Originally Posted by HootmonSccy View Post
    Here is my thinking on this, and you are old enough to remember the analogy...
    40+ years ago, how often did you change tires?? Before Polyglass and radials tires... Remember??

    You changed your tires every 10-12K miles.. That's all bias tires were good for...
    Do you still change your tires every 12K miles??? Why??? IF you did, you would probably never have an issue with a tire!!!
    You don't.. The tires you buy today will easily go 35K and some go more than 50K..
    So why don't you change tires every 12K.. Because of tire technology improvements..

    Oil is the same way... the 3,000 mile rule was just like the 12K mile tires replacement.. It was a great rule to live by...
    However just like tires are different, so is Oil today.. there have been great technology improvements to oil. It is just made much better today than it was 50 years ago.. Even the car company's (who stand to loose money in their shops) have finally gotten off the 3K recommendations for oil... Most recommend 7K mile changes today and that is with conventional "Dino" oil.. Car companies have done their research and that is why they have changed the intervals..

    So, is it a great rule to change your oil every 3K miles.. It won't hurt anything but your wallet and the environment..

    I agree with the "invest in a good filter".. BUT be a little careful with the info on the filter comparisons on the Net.. Many of them were done 5+ years ago and several companies have completely redesigned their filters since the comparisons.. (Amsoil for one)..
    I have 72k on my current tires. They just got down to the wear marks. When Im feeling rich, ill replace them.
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  9. Quote Originally Posted by Red Hat View Post
    Synthetic oil is synthetic oil. I was at Walmart a few days ago and I found Quaker State synthetic oil on clearance for $2.50 a quart. I bought all they had, 32 quarts. Yesterday I was checking them again and I found Quaker State 5 quart containers on clearance for $13 ea $7 off the regular price. I decided to get all 14 they had on the shelf. When I checked out they had made a mistake when they marked it down in the computer. I got all 14 for $7 ea. I don't have to buy any synthetic oil for years!

    BTY, it's all 5w 30.
    Thats the way to shop! Thats how Ive been with ammo lately.
    Retired US Army Medic
    Proud Husband, Dad and Christian
    www.nationofshooters.com

  10. #39
    Ive always been using mobil 1 full synthetic 5w30, i thnk it is one of the best.

  11. #40
    2006 Honda Accord - 2.4L VTEC 4 cylinder (68K miles - 29K by me and Mrs. SC Tiger) - Mobile 1 5W-20 Synthetic with either a Mobile 1 or Fram oil filter. Changed when the oil life meter gets around 50%, since my wife drives less than 2 miles to work. Gets expensive. Runs like new.

    2000 Chevrolet Silverado - 5.3L V8 (150K miles) - 10W-30 conventional (dead dino) - whatever Auto Zone/Advance/Wally World has on sale that isn't either a store brand or Quaker State. I've used Valvoline, Castrol, Mobile 1, Pennzoil, and Havoline, along with Bosch, Mobile 1, K&N, Fram and Purolator oil filters. I do use the high milage stuff as from what I have read there really is something to it. Change around every 3000-3500 miles. I ignore the oil change system in it but reset it every change. Runs like new. Was told by the dealer that there was no need for synthetic in this truck, and no mention of it in the manual.

    I would avoid any place that pulls the oil out through the dipstick tube as opposed to draining from the plug. I don't know if anyone does this but rumor was Wal-mart was going to start doing this so if they do I wouldn't be surprised to see some of the smaller quick-lube places (Jiffy Lube, etc) doing this. I change my own oil so this isn't an issue for me.

    I have read several places that once you go to either synthetics or the high-mileage stuff you should stick with it or you could get leaks (synthetics could clear out crud that is stopping up the leaks - at least that's the theory). I've switched back and forth from synthetic to conventional and from high-mileage to regular but now I stay with conventional high mileage.

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